| |
Frustrated With Pool Chemicals
by Jane
(Conroe TX)
I have a 24'x 24'round pool that holds 13,000 gallons of water above ground. Well, I am totally confused on what I am doing wrong. I have 2 floating canisters of 3" in each 3" tabs floating around in pool. I have shocked then added muriatic acid then I get reading of chlorine too high and pH too high. When I try to lower the pH with the acid then I lose my chlorine so I am playing this game over and over wasting so much chemicals. What am I doing wrong? Please help. Also my total alkaline reads high also as in the highest number on a test strip and the pH is always up 8.2 and when chlorine is high it reads 5 10. I am so confused on this. It is making swimming to me a nightmare. Thanks for the question Jane
Swimming is fun and taking chemicals is even fun (I've done it thousands of times) but we need to start from the beginning.
First, I'd like to have the rest of your chemical readings:
CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer)
Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
Metals (iron and copper)
Total Dissolved Solids
It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.
You can get this done at your local pool store.
Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is.
Next, you need to get a good test kit and lose the strips. Yes, they're more convenient, but you want accuracy.
I'd advise you to get a Taylor FAS-DPD K-2006 pool test kit.
Pool Water Testing
Water Testing Kit
What I have in terms of readings is the chlorine is between 5 - 10ppm and the pH is 8.2ppm.
The reason that you're losing your chlorine may not have anything to do with adding acid.
This is where the stabilizer (CYA) comes in. It might be too high or too low. A good range is between 30 - 50ppm.
You can have it high, but the chlorine must increase in proportion to the CYA. You wan't to keep the CYA at 7.5% of your chlorine (free chlorine/FC) level.
If you run the FC at 2.5ppm, then you'll want the CYA around 33.
2.5 divided by 7.5% = 33.
Your CYA might be at 100ppm, but the chlorine is at 5ppm. This isn't a good fit.
You can have the CYA at 100, but the FC needs to be increased to 7 - 8ppm.
You can decrease the pH using acid. Broadcast it around the perimeter of the deep end with the pump on.
Allow for 1 full turnover of the water (normally about 8 hours) then retest and make another adjustment.
Swimming Pool pH Levels
Pool pH
16oz. of acid will reduce the pH .2ppm per every 10,000 gallons of water.
Reducing the pH is the only thing that I'm comfortable telling you to do right now, until I have the other readings.
If you're using granular chlorine, I'd tell you to stop, for two reasons.
One, granular chlorine normally has a pH of 12, which means that the more you use the higher the pH will automatically go.
2nd, you probably have hard water in Texas. Granular has calcium and you don't want to add any more hardness to the pool.
Use liquid chlorine or bleach.
Get back to me with the other readings and we can go from there. We'll get your pool back to crystal clear perfection in no time.
Take a water sample to your local pool store for immediate results.
To post a reply, or if you have a similar question, you can see your post (Frustrated With Pool Chemicals) on the Q&A page in the "Chemical Questions" category.
Swimming Pool Questions and Answers
Check back to this post for answers.
Hope this helps and have a great Summer.
Robert Comment: Here Is My Pool Water Analysis: By: Jane Date: July 11, 2011 cya: 40 alkalinity: total 170 calcium hardiness:280 metals: 0 total dissolved solids: 600 free available chlorine: 3 total available chlorine: 3 water ph: 78 You told me yesterday to get back with you with my water sample so we can fix my water problem. Thank you JMP Comment
By: Robert Date: July 11, 2011
Thanks for the follow up Jane
By the looks of these numbers, your readings are what many pool owners wish they had. Did you do the test yourself or get them done at a pool store?
The only thing I can see wrong is the alkalinity which is a bit on the high side. It should be between 80 - 100ppm, with 120ppm being the highest you want to go.
Chlorine and pH are fine.
Hardness is just a bit high, but nothing to worry about. A good normal range is about 150 - 250ppm.
You can add a bit of acid to reduce the alkalinity. To reduce the alkalinity per 10,000 gallons 50ppm (to get to 120ppm), you'll use 1 gallon.
I'd first start with a quart, maybe just a hair more, and work your way down.
Pool Alkalinity
Total Alkalinity
Make the adjustment in the evening with the pump motor off.
Get a bucket with pool water and add the acid. Remember gloves, goggles, long sleeves and pants.
Mix it up and add to the pool in one spot. Very gently sweep the bottom to break up any hot spots.
Let this sit for about 3 hours, then turn the pump back on and let it go all night.
Retest in the morning and make another if needed.
It may drop the pH just a bit, but nothing to worry about 7.6 -7.8ppm is a good range, but if it gets to 7.4ppm, no worries.
I think you were better off than you thought. A couple of minor corrections should do it.
Best of luck and let me know how it turns out for you.
Robert
Click here to post comments.
Join in and write your own page! It's easy to do. How?
Simply click here to return to Pool Water Testing.
|