MY POOL ISN'T WORKING PROPERLY..CLOUDY/GREEN WATER

by Phillip
(Bradenton, Florida, USA, ( A hour south of Tampa)

My grandmother and uncle got a rental that has a personal pool, but ever since they moved in, they could not get it to work. We have shocked it, the blue water gel de-cloudifier stuff, EVERYTHING!


Over the last month we got it less cloudy, but after the last 4 days, it is extremely green again, and cloudy. We can get the pool balanced and we still have problems.

Also, before we run the pump, all of the stuff usually settles. We believe that the pressure of our sand filter is high, being 12, and the globe on the side today is low and has white chunky stuff in it.

And how do you tell if it is channeled inside the filter?

They live close to a pretty busy street. Can the exhaust and dirt debris change this? Sorry for all of the questions, but, is there a way to clear a pool within hours?

We also live an hour south of Tampa in Florida.

Thank you for all of the help

Thanks for your questions Philip

I would encourage you to get a Taylor Reagent FAS-DPD K-2006 pool water test kit. It's the best on the market. A little getting used to but it's worth it.

Water Testing Kit..FAQ..Chemistry Testing..Procedures..Balance..Swimming..

We should start from one of the last questions; channeling. You can use all the chemicals in the world but if your sand filter has channeling, it won't make a bit of difference.

You'll need to open the sand filter top and feel the sand inside. The media should feel like regular, wet, smooth sand and shouldn't ball up when squeezed. If it does then you'll need to de-grease the sand filter. Your local pool store should have a de-greaser. The product I use at the Y to de-grease those filters is called "Filter Fresh" and it works very well.

Feel around the sides of the filter. If you can feel holes or pits on the sides of the filter, then you have channeling and you'll still need to de-grease the filters. If you find this, just send me another post because there is a way to do it that's very effective.

Now for your pool chlorine and green pool water problems.

Normally when a pool can't keep a chlorine level for longer than a few hours, it means there's little to no cyanuric acid (CYA) in the pool. This is the stabilizer for the chlorine and can reduce the amount of chlorine used by 50%.

Go to these links to learn about chlorine and CYA:

Adjust Your Swimming Pool Chlorine

Swimming Pool Chlorine

Chlorine Tablets

Your FAS-DPD test kit will have a very easy way to test the CYA. Keep it between 20ppm - 40ppm and the chlorine between 1.5ppm - 3.5ppm.

For clearing up your green pool water and algae, go to this link:

Remove Swimming Pool Algae

There are a couple of other links in the above page to help you as well.

After you clear up your green pool water, if the water is still a bit cloudy, you can use a Flocculant. This is inexpensive and can be used in pools that are exposed to high levels of pollutants.

Having a filter pressure of 12psi is a bit high. Normally you want to backwash after the filter reaches about 8 - 10psi above your "just backwashed" pressure.

Have the proper amount of sand in the filter. You can check with the manufacturer for that information.

The skimmer(s), bottom drain, and pump basket need to be clean and free of debris. You can also check inside the pump motor and clear out any debris that might be in the pump motor impeller. Be sure to turn off the motor and the breaker to the pump motor before doing this.

Clearing up a green pool does take some time because you have an algae problem. First you'll need to shock the pool to kill the pool algae, then allow the filter to do its job.

Keeping your pool manually dosed with chlorine is good while the shock is going on and the next couple of days following. If you don't have your CYA in line the chlorine can go down from 10ppm - 12ppm to 0ppm in a day or two, so keep an eye on the chlorine.

You can also use an algaecide during this process to keep the pool algae away.

Hope this helps and let me know how this turns out for you.

Have a great Summer

Robert

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Foam In The Water..Swimming Pool..How To Get Rid Of..

We have a 20x40 kidney shaped gunite pool. It was backed washed yesterday and some DE added.

Pool water tested o.k. but towards the evening bubbly or cloudy pool water was coming out of the returns thus causing foam to float all over the pool. This has happened a few times before.

I have changed to a Hayward DE swimming pool filter since the first time it happened and for the past season it happened once, and again yesterday.

Would you know what's causing this or what I can do to resolve this?

Thanks so much in advance for any help you can give.

Thanks for your question

First I would recommend a Taylor Reagent FAS-DPD K-2006 pool water testing kit. It's the most accurate and the best on the market.

Water Testing

Be sure your pool chemicals are in line:

Swimming Pool Tips

Chlorine- 2 - 4ppm
pH Level- 7.2 - 7.8
Total Alkalinity (TA)- 80ppm - 100ppm
Calcium Hardness- 150ppm - 250ppm (mainly for plaster pools)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)- 30 - 50ppm

Now for some factors that could contribute to foaming pool water:

*Low calcium hardness levels or soft water. If you have a soft water system, fill your pool with regular fill water.

*High Total Dissolved Solid Levels (TDS)

*Lotions, sun-screens, oils

*Poor water balance.

*Use of low grade algaecides that are 10% polymers

*Kids that think throwing soap into your pool is funny (it does happen)

Low quality swimming pool algaecides that contain similar ingredients to dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride are known to cause some pool water foaming.

You're best bet is a polymer (polyquat) algaecide not a chelated copper algaecide.

Another issue is that you could have pool algae, bad or no filtration, or an air leak in the return lines.

You can start by chocking the pool:

Swimming Pool Shock

With a DE pool filter you'll need to be sure the grids are clean and recharged with the right amount of DE. Clean and backwash the pool filter as needed. A leak in the suction line(s) can cause foaming.

If you start using a "foam away" product, it doesn't address what caused the foaming in the first place. You need to find the reason for the pool water foaming. Also, you might be adding more TDS into the system which in turn might add to your foaming pool water problem.

Hope this helps

Robert

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Foam On Top Of My Pool

by Terra

I have the foam on top my pool I used swim trim a bag of short (baking soda) I have 20X40 2 cans yellow out...I have just used a bucket of granular chorine..My pool is not turning..I have well water ...Lady keeps telling me to shock it...Of course I done this all in two days what she told me.. I keep going out and skimming the foam off..But I don't know what else to do...Its been a week tom with this problem.I am gonna take it and get pool level tested tom.my ph and chorine is good.




Hi Terra. I need your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. I also need the kind of filter you have.

Foaming can sometimes be caused by excessive use of cheaper and/or copper algaecides. A copper algaecide is the last thing you want to use if you have well water. Yellow Out is Disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid has its uses but it should really be avoided. You only need bleach and/or liquid chlorine to clear the pool. Pretty much its a waste of money.

Get back to me with the request info. and we can go from there.

Robert

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Foam On Pool

by Sandra

Every time I ad a chemical like ph plus or de for filter aid the chemicals create a spotty foam on the pool. Shocking the pool does also. I don't remember this happening last year.The pool is very clear now but I just added PH plus and the foam appeared. What is it?




Hi Sandra. Foamy, like cloudy water can have many reasons. First is the use or over-use of old or a copper/metal based algaecide. Look for the ingredient Alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride. Biguanides can also cause it.

Next would be a suction side leak where air is entering the system. This can be caused by low water level, sticky skimmer weir, cracked pump pot lid, bad o-ring, etc...

The CYA could be too high redering the FC ineffective. Also, the calcium hardness could be too low. Without a full set of chemical numbers it's just a guesing game. Maintain the CH at 150 - 250ppm.

Robert

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