Newly Painted Pool Ready For Winter Care?
Hi there, from southern Oregon! I just got turned on to your techniques the last few weeks of summer and was happy with the preliminary results I had. Since then, we've repainted out concrete pool with Olympia Epoxy and refilled it, and are working on getting chemicals up to par.
I purchased and have been using your recommended Taylor's testing kit, and just ordered some more CYA reagant to finish testing that. Our most recent numbers reflect, (after a super chlorination for CC 0.6x3 tests, then rechecked in 12 hrs after pump running): FC - 4.6, CC - 0.4, TA - 120, CYA 30, pH - 7.6, and I can't remember calcium hardness now, but I'm remembering that it was indeed in range.
Didn't test TDS or metals, but haven't had issues with them in the past. My understanding after these numbers is that I need another superchlorination (using liq chlorine) to blast out the rest of my CC. We're also slllooowwwly transitioning away from using our local pool store, but they painted our pool for us, and included in the bid was a "winterization" kit. This is only the second winter we've had the house/pool, so I'm still very unfamiliar with winterizing it. What we were told the prev owner did was leave it uncovered and run the pump at night, keeping an eye on it when it got real cold.
We had a few inches of snow on the ground for a few days last winter (with highs in the low/mid 30s during day), and didn't have any freezing issues. We're working on cutting down some oak trees that posed a significant leaf problem last year, but would like to keep the pool open for the winter (looks nice). So, my question is, do I need this "winterization" kit that they sold to us? I believe its the bioguard offseason, which is just dichlor and a copper alginate -
didn't I read somewhere to NEVER use that?
Or, can I just continue to use liq chlorine or granular shock (if CYA doesn't creep up?) and an algaecide? And in that case, what algaecide would you recommend? Lots of info here, thanks for any input.
Thanks for the question Rachel and hi from Florida. I lived in Albany for 11 years.
Your numbers seem very good. Remember that shocking is a process, not an event. You will want to shock every 12 hours until the CC get to 0. Keep filtering and backwashing.
I'd put some acid in and get the pH to 7.0 - 7.2. The chlorine works better at a slightly lower pH. You can use calcium chloride to increase the CH level to 150 - 250ppm. I assume you have soft water. The water in Albany was at 3ppm so I added calcium chloride to increase the CH.
Concerning the kit you bought, take it back if you can. You don't need it. Bioguard Off Season winterizing kit has sodium dichlor, according to their own MSDS. Your CYA is fine so don't add dichlor which is a stabilized chlorine. Simple liquid chlorine will work.
BIOGUARD® OFF SEASON ARCTIC BLUE® ALGAE PROTECTOR MSDS is a copper algaecide which you don't want to use. If you need an algaecide use a PolyQuat 60. A little more expensive but it's worth it.
Use liquid chlorine and a good PolyQuat and you'll be fine. Don't use granular shock or chlorine as this will increase the pH.
If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias.
Hope this helps.