No Free Or Total Chlorine In The Pool!

by Lisa
(NJ)

I have shocked it a million times. This is my summer owning a pool. We have an inground with a liner. I am at the pool store 2x a week and am told different things every time I go.


They told me to shock it with 3 bags of cholorbrite so I did. Checked it this morning and still no cholorine.

Brought water to be tested, now they say pH level is 7.1 so they're telling me to add soda ash and then shock it again. My husband went the other day and they said it was the phosphates so he spent $30 on that.

This is driving me nuts and my kids are getting upset that they can't swim. Will I ever get the hang of this?

Thank you

Lisa




Thanks for you questions Lisa

Most of the time when you pool can't keep a chlorine level it has to do with the lack of cyanuric acid (CYA).

This is the stabilizer for the swimming pool chlorine and should be kept between 30ppm - 50ppm. Chlorine is 2 - 4ppm, or 7.5% of the CYA level.

Swimming Pool Chlorine

Adjust Your Swimming Pool Chlorine

Right now you're using an un-stabilized form of pool chlorine.

You need to get some Dichlor powder which is a stabilized form of chlorine, then use the Trichlor tablets to keep the cyanuric acid level in check.

Switch over to regular granular or liquid chlorine once the cyanuric acid level has been reached.

Don't keep using Dichlor as the CYA can get out of hand very quickly.

Chlorine Tablets

Using the Dichlor may decrease the pool pH level, but not to worry.

Go here to learn how to adjust that with baking soda.

It's very easy.

Swimming Pool pH Levels

Purchase a Taylor Reagent FAS-DPD K-2006 pool water test kit. It's the one most pool professionals use and the best on the market.

A little getting used to but it's worth it.

Water Testing Kit

I would discourage you from using a phosphate remover. Phosphates are food for algae and pool algae needs phosphates to reproduce and grow.

If you keep your chlorine level between 2 - 4pm, then there's no algae.

If there's no pool algae then why should you worry about phosphate levels?

The Y pool has a phosphate level of about 900, but I keep the chlorine level between 3.5ppm - 4.5ppm so algae has no chance of surviving.

I've taken care of pools that have had phosphate levels of 2000 - 3000 but when the pool chlorine level is correct, it kills the algae.

I feel it's just another expensive chemical that you don't need.

Remember to keep it simple.

So, to sum it up quickly:

*Dichlor powder to get some CYA in the pool. Switch to regular chlorine once the CYA level is reached, then Trichlor pool tabs to keep it there.

*Sodium Bicarb. to raise the pH level

*Keep the chlorine level between 2 - 4ppm to kill the bacteria and algae

*Get a FAS-DPD K-2006 pool water test kit

*No need for phosphate remover when the pool chlorine level is correct

*Every 10ppm of pool chlorine that is added by using Trichlor tabs you will also increase your cyanuric acid level by 6ppm

Bring this in to the guy you talk to at the pool store and see what he says. It might be interesting.

Best of luck with your pool and have a great Summer

Robert

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Clorine Problem

by Domenick

I opened my pool about 3 weeks ago and can't get the T/C and free clorine levels up.I super shocked several times but nothing .

Pool is above ground 24 'about 15000gal the readings are as follows TC .5 FC-0 Ph 7.4 Total alk 130 CYA below 20 lighter than chart .The readings are from this morning when last knight I put in 4 Gal liquid clorine.

Numbers should be up on clorine.What do I do next.




Thanks for the question Domenick

First off you don't need to use so much chlorine. It's 3.75 qrts. to raise the CL level up to 10 ppm per 10,000 gallons.

Next is the CYA. This is the stabilizer for the chlorine. You need to get some in there. You have 2 choices, either use Dichlor or straight up CYA. Both will work equally well to raise the CYA. Be careful when using Dichlor as it can get out of hand quickly. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Dichlor, you'll raise the CYA by 9ppm. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Trichlor tabs you'll raise the CYA by 6ppm.

The range for CYA is 30 - 50ppm. Once you reach the 30 ppm mark stop with Dichlor or CYA and go back to liquid chlorine.

Use 1 1/3 lbs. of either Dichlor or CYA to increase the CYA 10 ppm per 10,000 gallons. Start with about 1.5 lbs, FILTER for 10 hours, retest, and make another adjustment if needed. If seems you're not too far off.

Next is you need to get the TA down. It's just a bit high but nothing to worry about. The range for TA is 80 - 120 ppm. You're at 130 ppm. It's 0.8 qrts. of muriatic acid to lower the TA 10ppm per 10,000 gallons. This is what I would do.

Turn the pump OFF and add 25 oz. of acid in one spot. Sweep very gently to break up any hot spots on the pool floor. Allow to sit for 3 - 4 hours. Turn the pump on to FILTER. 2 hours later add the Dichlor or CYA, FILTER for 10 hours then retest the CYA, TA, and pH as stated above. The acid may affect the pH a bit but will come up through splashing around and topping off the pool.

Keep the CL level between 2 - 4 ppm.

I hope this has answered your question to your satisfaction.

If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias.

Pool Consultation

Hope this helps and have a great Summer.

Robert

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Chlorine Level Not Holding

by Anthony Parnagian
(NJ)

Opened pool and had a lot of black algae. Shocked pool 4 times, added algaecide. Pool is lighter shade of green but cholrine level is still not registering. Have been shocking for 3 days. Need help! Please.




Thanks for the question Anthony. First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool.

You can get this done at your local pool store. Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help.

If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Robert

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