Our Swimwear Is Turning Green In The White Areas. Why Is This?
We have had our swimming pool for 1 week and have noticed that all the white areas and on the lining of the pool have turned a greeny yellow.
We use a chemical floater to which 3 chlorine tablets are situated as this was the only way to get chlorine levels up. I've managed to balance it but then the levels drop really low.
Thanks for the question Rachel
I'd like to have your complete chemical readings:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper).
It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.
You can get this done at your local pool store.
I'd encourage you to get a Taylor FAS-DPD K-2006 pool test kit.
Pool Water Testing
Water Testing Kit
Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. It could be high metal content in the water, but that's just a guess. When I get the chemical numbers I'll know for sure.
Get back to me with the numbers and I'm sure I can help.
Comment By Rachel
I have just tested the water and this is the reading:
total alkalinity 120ppm
free chlorine 10ppm
I hope that this can help. I'm beginning to think about taking it down as I feel I'm fighting a losing battle with the pool unless you can help me. Having tested the water now after shocking the chlorine strip is a blue green and doesnt match any of the colours on the bottle why is this.
Could you also tell me how to keep the water crystal clear?
Comment By Robert
Hello again Rachel
I still need the CYA, metals, and hardness readings. The CYA is important because this is the stabilizer for the chlorine. If it's too high or low the chlorine will be rendered less than fully effective.
If it's high you'll need to do a partial or full drain and refill. The CYA test should have been done before the shock because if it is high, you just wasted alot of chlorine.
And did you get the pH down to 7.2ppm before you shocked? Remember, anything above 8.0ppm and you're only using 25% of the chlorine.
I think you're going a bit too fast right now. Shocking is a process, not an event or a name. There's a way you need to do it to maintain the chlorine level of 12ppm.
This requires shocking in the evening and retesting in the morning, and possibly doing the same again, keeping the chlorine level above 12ppm for a period of time. If you shock the pool once you may not have killed all of the algae.
Your chlorine level may drop to zero within a few hours, leaving your pool open to even more algae. This is why constant testing and shocking might be necessary.
I'm telling you this because, since 1999, I've cleared up hundreds of green pools on my pool route in Arizona.
I've also been the pool operator for our YMCA since 2008. This is probably not the experience you'll have access to when talking to the guys in the pool store.
If you can just slow down a bit and get me the other readings the process will go much faster. Keep filtering 24/7 and bask wash once per day.
Test strips can only go so far. The reading you got shows that the chlorine reading is probably high. How long after the shock did you test?
Again, without the numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Let's get the pool cleared up first before we do anything else.