Pool Still Green After Many Attempts To Clear!

by Tana
(Clear Up A Green Pool eBook)


3+ weeks ago, on start up, I drained the pool because of algae. I filled it up, replaced a cracked pump, used a whole bottle of algae remover and filtered it for days but it's still green.


Last weekend I changed the sand and filtered for 2 days but it's still green. THEN it was suggested I use "First Aid" was told it would kill even oil in water in 24 hours....IT DIDN'T!

Now it's just a yucky greyish green! I'm at a loss!! After looking at your website I do see where I may have backwashed too much but initially it was moving some of the dead algae out.

Oh yeah, & I used superfloc. Have a 12' x 18' oval pool in Louisville KY




Thanks for your question Tana

I've been to Louisville a couple of times. Used to live in Owensboro for a couple of years. We'll start from the "whole bottle of algaecide". An algaecide is used for preventative maintenance only. It's not to get rid of nor kill algae already present in the pool.

Whomever told you to use an algaecide to kill already existing algae is mistaken. An algaecide can be used as a backup for a green pool, but this is with a very good chlorine shock. The chlorine will kill the algae and the algaecide is used for a little insurance because the chlorine level will be reduced quickly due to the algae.

I'd like to have your chemical readings. This makes the process much easier. Because you drained the pool 3 weeks ago, I will assume you don't have any CYA in the pool. I have to assume because I don't have your chemical readings. Keep filtering 24/7. This is important because the filter will be doing alot of work. Back wash once per day to get rid of the algae.

Next is to shock the pool with Dichlor chlorine. This is a stabilized form of chlorine that will not only put chlorine in your pool, but will add CYA to it. Be careful in using Dichlor because your CYA can increase quickly.

For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Dichlor, you'll raise the CYA 9ppm. For a 12 X 18 pool you probably have anywhere from 5000 - 6000 gallons of water. You can go here to learn about chlorine and pool shocking:

Swimming Pool Chlorine

Pool Shock

Pool Chlorine

Chlorine Tablets

Pool Chlorine Tablets

You'll need 11oz. of Dichlor to reach super chlorination. I would encourage you to go a bit higher, maybe even 1 pound. It's better to go a little over than not hit that mark. Do the shock and night and retest in the morning.

You'll know the shock is working because the algae will turn a white/gray color. Shock the pool again with Dichlor, but remember to test for the CYA as well. Again, only use Dichlor if you have no CYA in the pool. If the CYA is present (between 30 - 50ppm) use regular unstabilized chlorine such as liquid or granular. Here's a good post to look over:

How To Clear Up A Green Pool In Woburn

And these pages on the website:

Green Pool Water

Swimming Pool Algae

I would encourage you to lay off anything else.

High doses of chlorine is the only thing that will get rid of pool algae. That, and filtering and back washing. Go here to learn about flocs:

Can Super Floc Remove Pool Algae?

Most real pool guys will tell you that shocking and filtering are the best ways to clear up a pool in this circumstance. Once you get the Dichlor and CYA in the pool, you can then switch to either liquid or granular chlorine to daily dose your pool. If you have hard water already, use liquid chlorine.

Test every evening and keep the chlorine level above 10ppm during this process. You don't want to give the algae any chance of coming back.

Filter 24/7 and back wash. Use the above links as much as you can. They have alot of good information on them. It may take more than a couple of days to see any results. The main thing is to be patient and keep on the chlorine.

For a reply, you can see your post on the Q&A page in the "Algae/Green Pool Water" category.

Swimming Pool Questions and Answers

Hope this helps and have a fun and safe swimming season.

Robert

Comments for Pool Still Green After Many Attempts To Clear!

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Nov 04, 2016
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Still green after shocking 3 times!
by: Jill Rorie

I'm writing again because even after shocking it twice with the liquid chlorine, it is still green. A lighter green but still cloudy and green! I don't know what else to try! I took another water sample to the pool supply store:

Free chlorine 14.59 ppm
Total chlorine 14.75 ppm
Combined chlorine .16 ppm
pH 7.5
Hardness 374 ppm
Alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction) 155 ppm
Cyanuric Acid 45 ppm

If I can't get it clear this week, I'll probably just give up!




Hi Jill. Without knowing the size of your pool or the filter kind I can only make general statements.

You need to maintain the FC level at 15ppm or slightly higher and make sure the filter is perfectly working. DE, sand, and cartridge carry their own and different sets of maintenance. You need to filter 24/7 and backwash once per day.

FC kills the algae and the filter cleans the water. Your other readings are good. Reduce the pH to 7.0. The FC works better at a lower pH.

Remember I also offer phone consults and eBooks that go into great detail about these issues.

Clear Blue Pool eBook
How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook
Resources
Personal Phone Consultation

Robert

Oct 28, 2016
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Where can I get liquid chlorine now?
by: Jill Rorie

I had always used liquid chlorine in my above ground pool with my well water and it worked really well.

But now that the summer is over, I have not been able to find it and I am having trouble clearing up my green water in order to close the pool for the winter.

It wasn't green until I added the chlorine granules but it turned green overnight after I added the packet and now I can't clear it up. I've shocked it with 4 lbs. of granules but you can't even tell it! I took a water sample to the pool supply store and they said all my levels are good.




Hi Jill. You can use unscented grocery store bleach. It's the same thing as liquid pool chlorine. Just be sure it's fresh and a quality brand.

Robert


Aug 08, 2016
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Fine dust that settles at bottom
by: Steve-o

My pool is clear until we get in and stir up the dust or fine powder that settles at the bottom. I've tried supper flock, new sand filter and even a few strange pvc pipe build remedies without luck. When I attempt to vacume it up, it both stirs up the dust and on most occasions goes right through my sand free and shoots back into the pool! Please help

Jul 21, 2016
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What do I need to get rid of the green????
by: Jazzy

Took the cover off the pool July 1st and could see straight to the bottom. The Pool people came and added water and brushed it and it turned dark green.It's been dark green ever since. We are constantly shocking and adding chlorine but still no changes. What should we do???




Thanks for the question. I need your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool.

Aug 17, 2015
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Help With My Swamp
by: Lost in Syracuse,NY

I purchased an AG pool in May 2015. Due to unforeseen issues the pool was set up and filled but no electricity. Long story short I have been fighting with a green cloudy pool since installation. We had it blue and cloudy for a while but as of last week it is back to green and I am now out of money. This week I have stabilized and slammed. My husband tested the water yesterday and the chlorine was so high that the test water turned orange. I am completely lost. The pool place just tells us to shock it! I am getting confused an starting to feel like I wasted a ton of money on something that I wont be able to fix. I am getting ready to just remove all the water and call it a season even though the kids haven't been able to really enjoy it yet. Any advice before I jump over the edge....




Thanks for the question. I need your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool.

Here's a video of me clearing up a 10k gallons AGP in 4 days for about $25:





If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Robert

Jul 27, 2015
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$50 more
by: Anita

That post by anonymous was Anita from previous day, sorry I forgot to change it. Thanks for info.

Jul 27, 2015
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$50 more
by: Anonymous

Had the water tested today. Just put 1.5 quarts of pool magnet plus in. Was told to give it a couple of hrs. Then add Lo n slo 4 lbs. 1 bag burn out and 4 lbs balance pal 300.

I've only done the magnet plus so far.
Cya 50
Tot chlorine .1
Ph 8.5
Tot alkalinity 199
Tot hardness 73
Copper .3
Iron .3
Last week I put in 30lbs bi carb over 3 days on fourth day 2 bags shock. 3.75 lbs of balance pal 300, 2.75 lbs Lo n slo

I'm contemplating draining it halfway or completely and start over. Ugh!!
Thanks so much for your time and knowledge. I've had the pool 3 yrs and im still learning ..... Slowly




Thanks for the question. First thing is you need to STOP with the chemicals until we go through what's going on. You're adding chemicals then adding other chemicals that counter-act the chemical adjustment you just made. Basically, you're going up, then down, and ending at the same place you were.

CYA level is 30 - 50ppm. You're right on the high-normal side. Nothing to worry about now but keep an eye on it and watch any kind of stabilized chlorine. What happened is you added Lo N Slo (which is granular acid used to lower the TA and pH) then added bicarb which just raised the TA and pH. Then added Lo N Slo again. That is completely wrong and you're being taken for a huge financial ride by the pool store.

First thing is to be sure your filter is working perfectly. Without knowing the kind of filter you have I can only make that general statement. Next is to use acid to lower the pH to 7.0. You'll also lower the TA while doing this. Lo N Slo is fine but you can also use muriatic acid if it's cheaper. In effect, they're the same thing. If you have a vinyl pool there's no need for Balance Pak 300 which is calcium chloride. This raises the hardness of the pool. If you have a plaster pool then get generic calcium chloride to raise the CH to 150ppm. Only use enough to maintain 150 - 250ppm CH.

Get a good metal sequestrant. Jack's Magic is good. You want the ingredient 1-Hydroxyethylidene-1, 1- diphosphonic Acid, a.k.a HEDP. Jack's Purple Stuff can be found on Amazon or simply Google it.

Finally only use liquid chlorine for this process. Use 1 gallon per 10k gallons morning and night. If you have a 23k gallon pool then use 3 gallons. Keep filtering, backwash and sweep once per day. Here's a video of me clearing up and balancing a 17K gallon pool in 2 days for $4.50.



If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Robert

Jul 27, 2015
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Sand Filter bs Cartridge
by: Anita

My Intex above ground holds 15,000 gallons. I run the stock cartridge filter. There is good pressure and water flowing. But, my pool turned green after a week vacation and I've spent $100 plus trying to clean it up with NO success. Should I invest in a sand pump filter system or should my cartridge filter be adequate? The filter has a few small bugs and grayish residue, but nothing green, even though water is green. Great pressure too.




Thanks for the question Anita. I'd ask how many filter hours you have on the cartridge? If it's more than 2000 hours you should get a new one. 5.5 filter hours per day x 365 = 2007 filter hours. If you keep your pool open all year it's time to get a new one.

Next, I need your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. $100 to clear up and balance a 15k gallon pool is way too much, as you know. Get back to me with the info. stated above and we can go from there.

If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free. The eBooks are designed to save you hundreds on your pool care.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Robert

Jul 22, 2015
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Green Pool
by: Terry

I have a 18' round, 4 ft deep above ground pool in New York. Water is green, I've been buying chemicals from Leslies. It took a while b4 my chlorine would show, but thanks to 4 1lb bags of Chlor Brite my chlorine is stable. It was at 10 last week and has been at 2 the last 5 days. My readings are free available and total availavle chlorine are both at 2, Calcium Hardness is at 270, CYA is at 50, TA is at 100, pH is 7.4, Copper, Iron, & Phosphates are all at 0. This has been going on for a month. But water is still green. Tried all chemicals Leslies recommended and water is still green What should I do?. Spent over $300 but not luck.




Thanks for the question Terry. I'm getting 2 kinds of chlorine for Leslie's Chlor Brite. One is calcium hypo which you don't need to use. Another is sodium dichlor which is stabilized chlorine. If this is the case you absolutely needs to STOP immediately using dichlor. Your CYA will dramatically increase if you keep using dichlor. You're readings are alright for now. The first thing is to be absolutely sure the filter is perfectly working. I don't have the kind of filter so I can only make that general statement.

Next is to get the pH down to 7.0 using liquid acid. For your size pool 20 - 25 oz. should do it. Sweep and allow to filter for 10 hours. Now it's time for liquid chlorine, and only liquid after this. In the PM use 1.5 gallons and sweep very well. Next AM you'll vacuum, backwash, then another 1.5 gallons. PM do the same thing. AM the same thing. What you're doing is maintaining a high FC to kill the algae. After 3 - 5 times of consistent applications you're pool should start to clear.

Shocking is a process, not an event. The trick is to get AND keep the chlorine above 12 - 14ppm for a period of time. You'll need to manually dose the
pool with chlorine to keep it at 12 - 14ppm ppm. Make the adjustment at night, then retest in the morning. Be sure to have the pump running 24/7 and
backwash once per day. You can go up to 15ppm, but no higher. Anything after that and you're wasting money and chemicals.

You'll know this is working because the pool will go from green to a white/grey cloudy and the chlorine will begin to hold better. First you may lose most, then 2/3, then 1/2, and so on. Once you only lose 1 - 2ppm of chlorine 8 - 10 hours after the last application and the water starts to clear you know the algae is dead. Now it's just a matter of filtering and backwashing once per day. Broadcast the chlorine around the perimeter of the pool and brush well. This will loosen up any algae adhering to the walls and bottom.

Shocking a pool isn't adding a bag of chlorine to a pool and expecting it to clear up the pool. Shocking a pool means to kill/eliminate the algae and organic matter. This is done by dosing the pool with enough chlorine to reach a high enough FC level and keeping it at this level to allow the chlorine to kill the algae and organics in the pool. It's insane that you've spent $300 clearing up your pool. I cleared up and balanced a 10k galon above ground pool in 4 days for about $20. What you've received from the pool store is absolutely terrible information.



If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you

know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Robert

Jun 01, 2015
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Help My Pool Is Green!!
by: Tiffany

Hi Robert,

I am hoping you can help me as well. Our pool is super green. We cannot see the bottom or even the second step. Ivy pool is below ground and I am guessing around 20,000 gallons. I have been working on it for 3 days. Water test showed 0 chlorine. Brushed pool down, back washed for 4 min., and added 8 gallons of liquid chlorine. Nothing. Took in water sample next day, 0 chlorine again. Added 10lbs granular dichlor and stabilizer. Nothing. Water test today showed .5 chlorine 0 phosphates. Added 10 more lbs Dichlor. There is still no change. I have put in over $125 in chemicals. What do I do?




Thanks for the question Tiffany

First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool.

You need to STOP STOP STOP adding chemicals until we get the numbers. You've added 20 lbs. of dichlor. This is stabilized chlorine. Each time you shock with dichlor you raise the CYA by 9ppm and that range is 30 - 50ppm. To raise the CYA to 30ppm in a 20k gallon pool you'd use only 9 lbs. of dichlor. That's assuming you had NO CYA/stabilizer in the pool. You've used 20 lbs. of dichlor. Assuming the starting number of 0 CYA your stabilizer might be at 60 - 70ppm, or ever higher at this point. This is too high stabilizer level.

Next is you must get the Taylor K-2006 pool kit. It's the best and will give you the most accurate readings.

Once I get your readings we'll be in a better place to get your pool back to balanced and clear. I'll also send you a free copy of my eBook. I'll just need your email for that.

Robert

Jan 18, 2015
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Algea On Bottom Of Salt Water Pool
by: Janet Garcia

How do I get rid of the algea that is on the bottom. Should I add chlorine although I have the saltwater system?

Jan 18, 2015
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Pool Still Green After Attempts To Clear It Up
by: Anonymous

Robert you were absolutely right in telling me to superchlorinate! My pool is finally at the greyish white stage!!! I was beginning to wonder if I was going to be able to enjoy it at all! I've had my pool for 7 yrs. now & no one told me to do that!!




Remember, once you get the CYA to 30 - 50ppm using Dichlor, keep the chlorine level up above 12ppm while the algae is being killed off. This is important. It's not a 1 shock deal. You need to keep on it until all of the algae is gone. This is where alot of pool owners fall short. They shock once but they don't keep the level up high enough.

The sun and heat are going to bring the chlorine level back down, so keep manually dosing the pool. Shock at night and retest in the morning. It may take a few days for the entire process. Keep filtering 24/7 and back wash once per day.

Let me know how it goes for you and have a great Summer

Robert

Jan 18, 2015
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Shocked The Pool Yesterday
by: Tana

This has been very helpful. I shocked it yesterday but today the water is a lighter green. I used the whole lb. like I usually do, believe my pool holds about 10,000 gallons.




Thanks for the follow up comment. Be sure you're manually dosing your pool with chlorine to keep the level up above 12ppm. Allow the chlorine to do it's job in killing the algae and back wash once per day.

Keep me up to date with your progress. Good luck with your pool and have a great Summer.

Robert

Jul 06, 2011
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Used Dichlor To Clear Up The Pool
by: Tana

By: Tana
Date: July 6, 2011

Hey Robert

I started out using the dichlor as you said but then went to Powder power plus (Leslies) because of presence of CYA. I think I've shocked the pool 4 times since last weekend then finally yesterday, the grey/white. I just kept shocking the s#$% out of it! lol I thought you had said if there is presence of CYA not to use the dichlor?




Answer

By: Robert
Date: July 6, 2011

Yes, you did right in shocking with Dichlor until the CYA reaches 30ppm, then switch to regular liquid chlorine, or granular chlorine if you have softer water, below 50ppm. The reason for the Dichlor is it has both chlorine and CYA in it while regular chlorine is unstabilized.

Pool owners will dump alot of chlorine in the pool and wonder why after a few hours it's gone. That's because there's no CYA. And this is why having your chemical readings are so important. It gives me what I need in order to help you the best. Next to pool safety, taking readings is the most important part of having a pool. Remember to take a chlorine reading after 1 full turnover of the water. This is normally about 8 hours. And keep a log as well.

This way you'll know how much of the chlorine is holding throughout the night and see any patterns that may develop. It's really not difficult to balance a pool, but there's many little things to know and how to do it. Each part makes the whole. I don't want to sound all "foo-foo", but I really enjoy helping people get their pools back up and running.

I've been doing this since 1999 with my route of 50 pools in Arizona and how as the pool operator for the YMCA for the last 3 years. I've cleared up hundreds of pools, taken thousands of tests and vacuumed for more hours than I really want to think about. Hope this helps and keep me up to date.

Robert

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