Problem With Salt Water Generator In New Above Ground Pool

by Julie Bright
(UK)

We're hoping someone can please give us some ideas as to what to do next.


We have just built, one week ago, an Intex above ground pool, 32' x 16' x 52" with a sand filter/pump, intex salt water generator and a Heat Exchange unit. The Intex info, recommended 165k of salt which we added.

Since, the swg has switched from 'working' to flashing fault code '91'. We reset and after about 1-2 hrs it reverts to the fault code.

We havent added Cyanauric Acid, but Alkalinity, Hardness, PH etc are all within acceptable levels.

Tested for salt today using Aquachek test strips which started off at 4.500-5000ppm but on a second test read 9000+.

What should we do next?




Thanks for the question Julie

First I'll start with a conversion table because we use standard instead of the metric system.

10,000 gallons = 37,854 litres

1 pound (lb.) = 0.45 kg

According to my calculations you have a 15,360 gallon pool. We'll call it 15,400 for the math. For an average 20,000 gallon pool you will need 7-10 50lb. bags to bring your saline level to the correct reading of 3000-4000ppm.

For your pool, you would want to start with 5 - 6 bags, test, then make another adjustment. If my math and conversion is correct, you used 363 lbs. of salt. If each bag is 50lbs. that would equate to a little over 7 bags.

How soon are you testing the salinity of the pool after you add the salt. You should wait for 1 full turnover of the water before testing. This is normally about 8 - 10 hours, but you can go up to 24 hours. Unless the pool water is diluted through rain or topping off, the salinity will stay the same. Optimal is 3000ppm.

You should only run your filter with the SWG off to thoroughly mix the salt. My understanding is there's no way to adjust the chlorine level. You need to run the chlorine generator longer.

Many Intex pool owners run their chlorine generator between 5-8 hours per day and filter 12 - 14 hours per day. Intex pumps are a little small for their pools so you will need to filter longer.

I beleive the manual says 93 lbs. Allow to filter for 24 hours, then start the chlorination cycle.

Be sure the cell is clean. Being brand new it should be. If there's any calcium buildup or debris inside, it can give you a false "Low Salt" alarm.

To clean it, you can pull the outlet hose off and put on a cap. Pull the copper cell out and fill the chamber with vinegar. Use a soft bristle brush to remove any debris. Install the cell again and allow to sit for 15 - 20 minutes. Flush it out with clean water and hook everything back up.

If you have the manual the process should be in there.

Salt Water Swimming Pools

Chlorine Generator & Salt Cells

Be sure you're using a good food grade salt:

Which Salt To Use In A Salt Water Swimming Pool?

If you need immediate assistance (within 24 hrs) or for emergency personal assistance, you can make a donation of your choice and I'll answer your questions by phone.

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Hope this helps and have a great Summer.

Robert

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Error Code 92 On salt Water Pool Cell

by Joe
(Iowa)

After getting a "too much salt" error code I drained a foot out of the pool and filled with fresh water. Still getting error code.

What else can I do or I'm thinking the salt/chlorine machine is broke? Can I bypass the error code?




Thanks for the question Joe

Are you checking the salinity of the water against a manual reading? The salt level might be ok, but you need to manually test the salt water.

The one I use at the Y pool is a Myron Analog Salt Meter. You can see a picture of it here:

Salt Water Swimming Pools..System..Maintenance..Chlorine Generator

You would also need to calibrate the meter. You can use Hayward Goldline GLX-SALTMETER and calibration solution (GLX-CAL-SOL Calibration solution for salt meters, 3200-ppm).

I get our salinity water from TMI Salt Pure.

The YMCA pool has a Cloromatic box that occasionally threw codes. We found out it was the front and back boards. We replaced them and everything was fine.

There's a reason that your cell is throwing a code. I wouldn't try to bypass it. Find out why it's doing it first.

If you have a flow sensor, check that as well. The Y sensor would "salt up" each month so I had to clean it.

You may need to check your control box. The control box manages how much salt and chemicals are added to the water. It controls the amount of power sent to the salt cell.

I don't know the kind you have, but we have a front and back board.

Be testing with a volt meter, we can determine which board is bad or not working properly.

If you're handy with a volt meter, you can do this yourself. Otherwise, contact a qualified pool tech with experience handling your specific salt cell.

Hope this helps and good luck with the pool.

Robert

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Chlorine Generator W/ Bad Boards

by Tony van der Lith
(Cape town South Africa)

Hi I have a pool with a capacity of 120,000 litres. My 2nd Zodiac (clearwater) (LM 240) chloromatic has now given up the ghost -unfortunately after having had problems in the last 8 months when all 3 pc boards had to be replaced at various times.

The problem started when the "cover" of the controller was damaged by UV and "fingere pressure" resulting in the pcboard 1? being damaged resulting in no power to the controller board/ pump.

Since then the other 2 pcboards were "blamed" for my problems (at one stage they reported it may be the transformer which was the problem) - after spending a large amount of money replacing the pcboards and cover I am now informed it is the cell "broken" as it is producing 5.amps instead of 8 amps.

I am also informed that the cells have a lifespan of 4 years. (Are the PC boards the same for a ml240 and LM3 as they put a lm3 cover on my controller box -I have no idea if they in fact put a LM3 PC board into the controller meant for a ml240 cell?)

Are there any reliable chlorine generators which have a life span of more than 4 years as Zodiac clearly don't have one or should I just go back to a HTH floater and if so how many are required for 120 000 ltr pool

Kind Regards Tony from Cape Town south Africa.




Thanks for the question Tony

If the band name for the chlorine cell is Chloromatic then you have my sympathy. They're not my favorite. I was introduced to it when I started at the YMCA as the pool operator in 2008. Between the board throwing codes and the malfunctions of the cell I'd tell pool owners to look elsewhere for a chlorine generator.

There are many from which to chose and I'm not familiar with all of the details to each of them in terms of specifics on how each one is manufactured. I can tell you from personal experience the kinds I like and have had good success with.

First I'd like you to look over these:

How To Choose A Salt Water Chlorine Generator

Which Is The Best Brand Of Salt Water Chlorinator?..Salt Cell..

Hayward and Pentair have very good salt pool chlorine generators. A well maintained chlorine cell can last 3-7 years. The average replacement cost can be between $600-$1200.

Get a cell with Reverse Polarity. This will reduce the scale build-up on the cell. and don't allow the calcium hardness to get above 250ppm. Anything over this, for a long period of time, will ruin the cell. Clean the cell once a season or as needed. Over or under cleaning will reduce the cell's life.

To post a reply, or if you have a similar question, you can see your post on the Q&A page in the "Chlorine Generator/Salt Cell" category.

Check back to this post for updates or answers.

If you need immediate assistance (within 24 hrs) or for emergency personal assistance, you can make a donation of your choice and I'll answer your questions by phone.

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Hope this helps and have a great Summer.

Robert

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Green Dust/Chlorinator

by Connie Sears
(Adair IL)

I have a 20x48 metal frame Intex pool and I am wanting to add my saltwater chlorinator but there is green dust on the floor of the pool.

I cannot seem to be able to get the dust out. Any suggestions? And can I go ahead and add the chlorinator with the dust on the bottom.




Thanks for the question Connie

We need to determine what the green dust is. It could be algae, pollen, or something else.

I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:

Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Green dust is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself.

You can get this done at your local pool store. Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is.

Next is the chlorinator. Yes you can hook it up but it would be better to wait until we find out what the issue is. If you have to repeatedly shock the pool you're going to keep the cell off anyway.

Remember that a salt pool only has two real benefits. It makes the water feel better and you don't need to manually add chlorine. The cell still produces hypochlorous acid.

Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help.

To post a reply, or if you have a similar question, you can see your post on the Q&A page in the "Chlorine Generator/Salt Cell" category.

Check back to this post for updates or answers.

If you feel your situation is more complex and want immediate assistance (within 24 hrs) you can make a donation of $35 per hour and I'll answer your questions by phone.

Have I helped you find a solution to your pool problems? Did this information help you? Please consider making a donation to help keep this site going. Thank you.









Hope this helps and have a great Summer.

Robert

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