Switching From Baquacil To Chlorine
by Jeff Maes
We use the Baquacil product but would like to switch to chlorine. The filter system uses the Starite filter PLM 150. Currently I have an algae problem that the Baquacil product isn't getting rid of and I don't want to spend (waste) anymore money. I need a new filter and would like to switch now that I am getting one. What is the process that I need to take to switch to chlorine? Thanks for the question Jeff It's amazing how many questions I'm getting this Summer about Baquacil and why people are either switching to chlorine or having problems with Baquacil or another kind of Biguanide pool. Here are the steps you'll need to take for a proper conversion. Remember to have alot of chlorine on hand because you're going to go through it. I'd suggest if you can, can get a cartridge filter. They're a bit easier, no back washing, easy to clean, and rate between a sand filter (low) and a DE filter (high). And I'll give you the links to the chlorine, pH, and alkalinity pages. Only replace the sand AFTER the conversion is complete. You don't want any Baqua products in there, to the best of your ability. Here's the process of conversion: 1. Get your pH to 7.2 - 7.4ppm. 2. Add the chlorine. You I would recommend liquid chlorine because you'll be adding alot of calcium by using granular chlorine. Your water may turn colors. This is normal 3. Test your water as often as possible, maybe every hour if you can, but at least once per day. You want to add enough chlorine to get to 15ppm. 4. Add your last dose of chlorine in the evening and test again in the early morning before the sun hits the pool. The free chlorine level might be gone, or way down. The conversion will go faster the more often you can test and get and keep your free chlorine level up to 15ppm. 5. Once you've been doing this for a few day and trying to keep the chlorine at 15ppm, test and add your chlorine in the evening. 6. Be sure to check the pressure in your filter on a regular basis and backwash. Alot of Baquacil will be coming out. 7. You can brush and/or vacuum. 8. When you test in the morning and only lose 1 ppm of chlorine, or less, it will be time for your new filter. When you have that squared away, you can add the CYA to reach 30 ppm and keep the chlorine at 15 ppm. Dichlor is best for raising the CYA quickly. 10ppm of chlorine added with Dichlor will raise your CYA 9ppm. Test for Combined Chlorine (CC/chlormaines). When they are at 0.5ppm or less for two days in a row, your conversion is complete. If you have any left over Baquacil products, try to return them for a refund or store credit. If you have any additional questions or would like to comment on your post, you can find it at the bottom of the Pool Algaecide page and the Q&A page in the "Algaecide" category: Swimming Pool Questions and Answers Here are the links to the chemical pages: Chlorine Swimming Pool Chlorine Pool Shock Pool Chlorine Chlorine Tablets Pool Chlorine Tablets pH Swimming Pool pH Levels Pool pH Alkalinity Pool Alkalinity Total Alkalinity Water Testing Pool Water Testing Water Testing Kit And the main page with all the chemical links: Swimming Pool Chemistry Hope this helps and let me know how it turns out for you. Robert
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