Viewed Your YouTube Video
Viewed your video on cal-hypo chlorination. I do agree the water in AZ is hard from the TAP. I don't know if you are familiar with a newer method of cleaning your water "cleaning" being the key word. It's us a large scale RO system developed for pools called puripool. We now have three owner operators in AZ.
I just had my done and it is amazing crystal clear water when their done (must hyper chlorinate afterwards and add baking soda for ph) I also now have a filter for adding water. I have been reading everything I can on this subject of various chlorination methods and since my water is purified, I am a better candidate for cal-hypo.
You are advocating bleach as the perfect way to go but in your analysis but you did not mention the cons of using bleach which are numerous. bleach adds a significant amount of salt you can absorb and is corrosive, bleach degrades in potency so strength is not stable and handling/leakage and having to stored around kids but it's cheap verses a dry product.
It seems like every product has it's advantages and disadvantages but you're going to put something on you tube you need to give complete and accurate information and not sway peoples minds based on your personal preference.
Hi Dee. Thanks for your comment. I am aware of RO systems for pools and it's a great idea. Reclaim 85% of the water and reduce CYA, CH, and metals. Ideal for drought areas such as CA. No need to do a partial drain and refill.
According to CLIP, Chemical Laboratory Information Profile, sodium hypo NaOCl, is approximately 50 g/L at 5%. At 10%, this would approx 3.5 oz. of sodium hypo by weight. This adds a negligible amount of salt into the pool and is nowhere near the amount of salt that a salt pool has 3500 ppm. Many people have salt pools that are not corrosive. Significant amount of salt is very subjective.
Chlorine, whether granular or liquid, can be corrosive. but applied the correct way, a pool owner will never have any bleaching of the pool surface.
Sodium hypo and cal hypo are both unstabilized, will degrade, and are intrinsically useless. It is for this reason that a pool owner needs to maintain the correct CYA and pH to allow the chlorine to be effective.
The thrust of the video was to educate people to go on the ingredient, not what "they" say it does. Clears cloudy water, 4 in 1, 6 in 1, and blue activating crystals mean nothing.
And my personal
preference is a non-issue. Throughout my videos and website I rarely, if ever say, "Well, this is what I think." I'm interested in what can be proven. I base my decisions upon the evidence.
And I'm no exception. I expect people to look at me and say I don't care what you "think" or what your "personal preference" is. I want facts. I want evidence based upon real world experiences. Something that can be replicated and duplicated with success.
Every product does have its advantages and disadvantages. All things being considered, taking in as many variables as we can, sodium hypo is the best alternative when it comes to the chlorination of pools. Chlorine should do 3 things: Sanitize, oxidize, and kill or organic mater in the pool.
My videos are accurate and informative.
Thanks and have a great day.
Hi Robert and thanks for a very in depth reply to my comment from watching your video. I have read up and tried to educate myself and I do appreciate the facts.
I would like to say that I don’t believe it’s the actual chlorine that is corrosive it’s the salts it is generated from and the conditions of high PH that does the damage.
Cal-hypo has the least content of salts as I understand it but two things concern me….my pool service probably won’t supply it so my costs with pool service will get more expensive but even then I learned the concentration per pellet is 1/3 calcium.
Although just like some salt pools you mentioned, some pools don’t seem to have scaling problems even with amounts 1000ppm (my neighbors SWG pool is sitting empty and deteriorating in our hot sun and I have to ask why cause he spent a lot on that pool pebble tech and all) so I guess it boils down to how lucky you feel.
In the end, I decided on the liquid chlorine with the use of The Chlorinator feeder that was highly recommended besides a SWG with high concentrations of salt not going there.
I have seen some higher end stuff that reads your pool water and adjusts your chemicals automatically but dependence on more expensive equipment to bake in the hot some and require repair etc is not ideal for me.
My pool service will work with liquid chlorine and that’s better than what their doing right now that has me in two weeks over the ideal for CYA and ruining my new cleaned water and litterly making my FC less active so then they just put more pucks in and shock treatments….it’s just going down hill fast.