Water testing kit and information on Taylor test kits, pool test strips and spa test strips.
You can test your swimming pool water like an expert whether you have an above ground, inground, or salt water swimming pool.
Great weekly pool maintenance tips and instructions to reduce your pool maintenance cost.
By using a good pool water test kit for basic pool care, you'll be able to balance your swimming pool, Hot Tub, and spa water chemicals.
Having one of the good Taylor pool test kits is of the utmost importance. Proper pool water testing is the best insurance against swimming pool algae and other pool problems.
Your pool chemical test should be done at least once per week, maybe even more if you have a large bather load or after a heavy rain.
You should test your pool water chemistry in the early evening and after you backwash your filter.
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Yellow OTO Test Kit Walk-Thru
Good swimming pool water maintenance should include swimming pool test kits and the proper levels of:
For phosphates you can get a phosphate test kit. Phosphate test kits are great if you think there's an issue with your pool. Normal pool water testing kits don't test for this.
Swimming pool chlorine is the sanitizer of the pool and should be kept between 2 - 4ppm.
The pool pH should be between 7.2 - 7.8.
Total pool alkalinity (TA) is between 80-120ppm. The calcium hardness between 150-250ppm and the cyanuric acid between 30 - 50ppm.
CYA is a pool stabilizer for your chlorine and is used for mostly outdoor swimming pools. Some indoor pools may benefit from cyanuric acid use.
Yellow OTO vs. Taylor K-2006 Pool Test Kit
A good swimming pool water testing kit will have this test. An excellent source for CYA are chlorine tabs. Simply place them in your chlorine tablet floater or chemical feeder. Test the CYA monthly to ensure it's not getting too high.
Careful reading should be taken for CYA as sudden drops or increases will cause your chlorine to lose its effectiveness.
Most CYA tests are done by mixing melamine solutions and pool water which causes the water to become cloudy. A black dot on the bottom of the testing tube will disappear when a mixing stir or rod is added. You then measure this against a graduated scale to find the exact amount of your CYA.
You'll also need to keep up on your residual chlorine demand testing.
You can learn how, when, where, and what of the best pool tips and swimming pool care for these readings from the above links.
Metals in your swimming pool water consists of copper, iron, magnesium, etc. At higher levels they may make the water to turn brown or green after shocking. This can cause swimming pool staining. They cannot be checked with normal pool test kits.
Copper can also turn a blond-headed little princess into a little green-headed princess.
The maximum level for copper should be 1.0ppm and iron is 0.3ppm. Try to keep those readings under that and you should be fine.
Well water is one of the worst places for copper and iron to hide. A well water test kit may come in handy is you have this issue.
If you do have a high levels of metals in your well water, you may want to look into a metal sequestant. This keeps metals in solution until they can get filtered and backwashed out. Sequestrants with the chemical HEDP are the best. Repeat application when needed.
Having a good water testing kit is critical in keeping your swimming pool in great shape all season long.
Go To:Swimming Pool Care > Pool Chemistry > Testing Kit
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I have cleaned my hot tube with "Clorox", aqua fresh, brought the bromine/chlorine level to 4-5 and cleaned with ahh-some twice.
The water was green at start of this year. I brushed walls and floor and added 12 pounds of shock & 1qt. of algaecide
Moving back to Cincinnati OH from Bradenton FL . Had a pool in FL , but would like one up north . Thinking above ground but made to look like in ground