Brown Stains In A Gunite Pool With A Salt System That Has Been Replastered
(Myrtle Beach , S.C.)
When I took on this pool it had brown stains on the walls and floor. The owner had already planned for someone to come and replaster it.
After they replastered it, the first couple of weeks it looked good, the chemicals good, then the stains started coming back. They got bad really quick! I tried Metal Out thinking maybe they did not use enough when they plastered it. That did not work. I tried algaecide 60 that did not work.
I cleaned the T-cell that did not work. I been keeping the salt levels around 2800-3000 and the chlorine readings are from 2.75 - 4.00. I am running out of things to do can you help me?
Thanks for the question Rita
Metal Out is good but it needs to be used on a consistent basis. The question doesn't say how much or how often it was used. And a PolyQuat 60 algaecide is used for preventative maintenance only. It's not used to remove already existing algae or stains.
What is the salinity range for your chlorine cell? Most cells today have a forgiving range of between 2500 - 4500ppm.
Next, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.
These numbers can tell me alot and may point
you in the right direction of the actions to take.
Next, you need to determine the kind of stain you have, either organic or metal staining. A couple very simple tests will do it.
Get a chlorine tab or a sock filled with 1/2 lb. of granular chlorine and place it on a stain. If the stain fades it's organic and you'll need to shock.
If the stain doesn't fade or gets darker, get some crushed up ascorbic acid (Vitamin C tabs) and put that in a sock on a stain. If the stain lifts a bit, it's a metal stain and you'll need to do an ascorbic acid treatment. You can find the ascorbic acid treatment in this link and here to shock a pool
Shocking is a process, not an event. The trick is to get AND keep the chlorine above 10 - 12ppm for a period of time. You'll need to manually dose the pool with chlorine to keep it at 10 - 12ppm. Make the adjustment at night, then retest in the morning. Be sure to have the pump running 24/7 and backwash once per day. You can go up to 15ppm, but no higher. Anything after that and you're wasting money and chemicals.
If you would like personal assistance, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster. If you choose to not go that route, we can correspond by email.
Brownish Stain All Over Pool Liner And White Hardware
Overnight late last summer our liner and anything white became brown. Could not scrub off and all, of our water test came back good with pH a little high. After closing the pool over the winter, this spring we discovered that anything that we removed was clear.
All of the white stairs and jets. We lowered the water level even more and noticed that when the air got to the stains they disappeared. Anyone seen this before.
Thanks for the question Sue
That's a new one for me. Normally stains can be attributed to either organic or metal stains. A couple of fast tests you can do is to put a chlorine tab on an affected area. If the stain lightens up it's organic and can be taken care of with a few chlorine shocks.
If the stain doesn't lighten up or gets darker it's probably metal stains. I would ask if you're on city or well water? Do you use an algaecide and if so is it copper based? The reason I'm asking is if you're on well water you shouldn't be using a copper based algaecide. It's simply adding more metal to the water. Use a PolyQuat 60 algaecide. You'll also need to use a metal sequestrant.
It would be good to have a complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier.
To post a reply, or if you have a similar question, you can see your post on the Q&A page in the "Algae/Brown Algae/Green Pool Water" category.
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How can I prevent these small brown spots from reappearing in my inground pool? I brush them away but they appear again the next day. Had the water tested it is in line. Do I need to drain the pool?
With the limited amount of information given it's very difficult to determine the cause of your issue. Do you have a plaster, vinyl, or fiberglass pool? Each one has its own set of problems. What are the readings? I need your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier. I also need your filter type.
Are you on city or well water? It could be metal or organic staining. As you can see there's more to be determined here.
Get back with the info. above and we can go from there.