I am starting a pool service business. One of my friends has been in the pool industry for quite awhile doing leak detection. He is the one who talked me into starting a pool service and eventually repair business.
He said one of the things I could do to cut time cleaning pools is going out to their house every other week and leaving a floater or chlorine dispenser in the pool to keep the chlorine level high enough.
Does this sound possible to you?
Congratulations on getting your own pool business and route. It does take some time to get the hang of it, and there's lots to learn, but keep at it and you'll nail it down.
I started with my pool route in 1999 in Arizona and have been the pool operator at the YMCA since 2008, so I know first hand what it takes to have a successful pool business.
A chlorine tab floater is used to dispense chlorine and CYA throughout the week. It's a very good, and small, investment. Normally they run between $10 - $13 and can last about 5 years or more.
I'm not a big fan of tab feeders. They sometimes gum up and can be a pain to repair and clean. I once had to clean a tab feeder in a pool for a retirement home and their cost was about $200. Imagine how many tab floaters you could buy with that?
Depending on the area, and competition, check around to see who is charging for chemicals and who is not. If you can get away with a monthly service fee + chemicals, I'd go with that.
If you roll the chemical use into the monthly fee it will chew into your profits.
I had a three tier structure:
Chemicals + service
Chemicals + ultimate service (vacuuming each week, cleaning off the deck, etc...)
Good luck with your pool route and let me know how you're doing.
I have an above ground pool 3,754 gal. with a 1,000 gph pump that came with the pool. I was told by a pool store that the water was overstablized, CYA was 100, TA was 140, pH was 7.5, but hardly any chlorine in it.
They said the only remedy was to drain at least half of the water and refill and test again. Is this correct or is there another fix for it?
Here in Arizona we have at least 2 more months left of HOT weather!
Thanks for the question Harold
I understand the heat in Arizona this time of year. I had a couple of pools on my route in Glendale.
Yes you're right. The only way to reduce the CYA is a partial drain and refill. The range for CYA is 30 - 50ppm. I would recommend draining 2/3 of the water. This will bring the CYA to around 33ppm. You can then do a complete test for the chlorine, pH, TA, hardness, and CYA.
Your chlorine is 7.5% of your CYA and that's 30 - 50ppm. If you have a CYA of 100ppm you'll need to run the chlorine at 7 - 8ppm to keep the chlorine active. After the drain and refill do the tests again and let me know what they are. Pool stores are notorious for giving wrong or bad info. to keep you buying chemicals.
If you would like personal assistance, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster. If you choose to not go that route, we can correspond by email.
September when the Almond leaves land in my pool it goes green and proves hard to cure. Is it the fault of the Almond leaves? I don't know.
I have an outside pool 100,000 litre pool. It is in the ground and is made of a concrete base and metal sides, then lined. ( It a professional lined pool )
I use granular chlorine and ph+ or ph- When I balance the pool I leave it for 4 days with 4 Chlorine tablets in the 2 skimmers. Temperature here is 30c or above in summer. Lots of people use the pool. Maybe 12, with sun tan oil and pee pee.
The water will make a brown water mark on the line. It will sometimes make the same mark on pool floats.
This time to clear the pool I drained the water below the jets. Someone told me if you make the jets act as fountains, it oxygenates the water and clears it. (?) I was also told it reduces the amount of chemical you need to clear the problem. (that made sense) As the pool cleared. I saw floating on top of the water, clusters of bubbles with an orange scum that attached it self to my plastic scoop.
I don't what this is. I also don't know why with the simple test kit. I left for 2 hours, the yellow chlorine indicator goes clear. but the ph level changes much high.?? I keep reading your page but grateful any tips
Thanks for the question Gerry
I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used.
Next is you need to get a good test kit. I recommend the Taylor K-2006 kit. I've made several detailed YouTube videos on how to use it. I'm unsure if you can get this kit in Portugal but if you want to keep a clear and balanced pool it starts with a good test kit.
If possible, you need to use liquid chlorine or grocery store bleach. Granular chlorine has a pH of 12. This, along with a heavily used pool, will cause the pH to rise and you'll be using more acid to try to decrease the pH.
Next is lowering the water level. I've never heard of this but my guess would be to not do it. The only thing it would do in my opinion is raise the pH due to a process called out-gassing. This is when the millions of tiny bubbles reach the surface, pop, and release the CO2 or carbon dioxide. If the pool is cloudy to green the only thing that will kill bacteria and algae is chlorine, and lots of it.
If possible, get back to me with the actual chemical numbers and I'm confident I can help. If it don't have the numbers and a little more information it's all a guessing game with the possibility of spending much money on trying to clear up the pool.
If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias.
In my city, you can't discard pool water into the street because it ends up in the San Francisco Bay. You can run your pool hose to a sanitary sewer connection like a sewer clean-out.
The sewer treatment plant neutralizes the chlorine, brings the pH back to a normal range, and removes the cyanide.
Oh yes, I had a pool service and fired them when the Polaris tires started to melt. The chlorine was over 25 ppm. All they knew was the chlorine was 5ppm with the Taylor test kit. Great video series and the same process I have used when my pool goes green. (I use the same brand of clarifier.)
I have to try your process for reducing the Total Alkalinity. My TA = 170.
Thanks for the question Leroy
Your pool guy was probably using the Taylor R-0001 and R-0002 which can only go up to 5ppm. These are what most pool stores use. This is why I'm a firm believer and really push the DPD Powder with the R-0871 for chlorine readings. It gives the most accurate readings and can go very high. If the chlorine is 25ppm it will tell you simply by counting the drops.
Check out my YouTube video here:
I would hazard a guess and say that your pool guy was simply dumping chlorine in the pool without testing it. Were you being charged for the chemicals?
I took over a pool route from a guy in Arizona. He used the yellow OTO kit and just dumped a gallon or two of chlorine in every pool regardless of size or chlorine reading. One pool's chlorine reading was fire engine blood red and he still poured more chlorine in. That was just laziness on his part. But he was making a nice little profit because he charged for chems.
Here's another video I did on what to look for when choosing a pool service company:
Checks out the vids and let me know what you think.