Ionizer Put Too Much Copper In My Pool

by Daniel
(Lyons, GA)

I set my ionizer to "HI" and put too much copper in my pool. I pumped out water till I got my copper in range .003 and now I can't get my water from green back too blue. I have shocked it twice with no results. The pH and alkalinity are ok.

Can you help? I need advice on what to do.


Thanks for the question Daniel

I was wondering if the pool is an algae green or a clear emerald green? You would approach it from different angles because they're different situations. An emerald green normally happens after chlorination with high copper (sometimes copper/iron mix).

A solid green means algae which is a lack of chlorine or another sanitizer. I would need a little more info. Your complete chemical readings:

Chlorine, CYA, pH, Alkalinity, Hardness. What kind of shock did you use? How big is the pool (gallons)? What kind of test kit do you use? Are you sure you got a good shock? Did you shock, allow for one full turnover of the water (normally about 8 hours) then retest?

The question says the pool was shocked twice. How long between shocks? What kind of filtration system do you have? Sand, DE, cartridge? If you could reply with this info. I'm sure I can help.

Thanks and hope to hear from you soon.


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Chlorine Level Is 0 ppm Even Within 30 minutes of Shocking

by Mike
(New Jersey)

I use an ionizer and copper level is .3 ppm. I use tri-chlor tablets to keep chlorine at .5 ppm. No problems at all in past years but this year chlorine level, both free and combined is always 0 ppm. I usually use non chlorine oxidizer but even tried di-chlor shock to raise chlorine level but within 30 minutes the chlorine level was back to 0 ppm. The water is crystal clear even with chlorine level at 0 ppm. It appears something is consuming the chlorine

Pool size: 30,000 gallons (vinyl liner)
Copper: . 3 ppm
TSD: 950 (acceptable range as per ionizer instructions)
Total alkalinity : 100 ppm
PH: 7.4
Calcium hardness: 170
CYA (stabilizer): 60 ppm

Thanks for the question Mike. First we need to define what shock means. It's not a products you buy, is a process of maintaining the FC high enough the kill the organic matter in the pool. For your size pool you would use, at minimum, 3 lbs. of dichlor to reach the 10ppm level.

For the next part. You CYA is at 60ppm but you're keeping your FC way low, about 1 - 2ppm. Your FC is not effective because the FC is relative to the CYA. As the CYA increases through the use of tabs the FC but also increase as well. The same is true for shocking a pool. Normal CYA range is 30 - 50ppm. This means that as the CYA rises it takes a higher FC level to reach actual superchlorination. With a CYA of 60ppm you would need to reach the superchlorination level of 20 - 25ppm. This is why a partial drain and refill is needed when the CYA gets too high. It causes the FC to be less effective and it also takes more FC to maintain sanitation levels.

If you've never had any issues in previous years, been using tabs, then this year there's no FC even after adding dichlor, then I'd suspect the CYA is too high and a partial drain and refill is needed to get the CYA down to 30ppm. Dichlor is also a stabilized form of chlorine. Each time to add dichlor to the water you're increasing the CYA. That, along with the use of tabs will cause the CYA to increase more rapidly and with a low FC level of around 2ppm will cause a low or no FC reading.

If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone and/or SKYPE consultations. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. If you purchase a personal phone consult you'll get all 3 eBooks for free.

Pool Consultation

Clear Blue Pool eBook

How To Clear Up A Green Pool eBook

Swimming Pool Resources

Hope this helps and have a great Summer.


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Pool Ionizer To Replace Salt Cell

by Jesse

It has been awhile. I wanted to email you today to see if you know anything about Pool Ionizers. My salt cell needs replaced this next opening and I was looking at additional options other than using and spending the $400.00 on the replacement.

I came across this Mineral Pure system. Have you seen these before? Please get back to me when you are free.

Here is the link:


Hi Jesse. The pool is sanitized through copper and silver ions put into the water through the mineral system.

We need to lay a foundation to understand what's going on. You have bacteria, algae spores, organic matter, etc... in your pool. They grow and reproduce very quickly and can double in size in 24 hours without the proper amount of sanitizer (green pool).

There are only two things that sanitize and oxidize the water, and kill bacteria faster than it can reproduce, and that's chlorine and bromine, or in the case of your chlorine cell, hypochlorous acid. Copper and silver have a much slower kill rate. Ionizers should never be used when you have metals in your water.

You're going to need to use a metal sequestrant that keeps the metals in solution. The seq. doesn't know the difference between the metals in the water and the copper/silver that's introduced through an ionizer, so it's binds all of it up. Basically, people who do this are wasting money.

As you know, I'm not here to sell you anything. If I sold ionizers I'd say go for it, and buy it from me, or buy your chlorine or chlorine cell from me, but that's not the case.

I know people want to use the least amount of chemicals possible, but in the case with pools, we need to take into consideration all of the variables such as bacteria, algae, and the myriad of organic matter that falls into the pool that affects the quality of the water. Properly balanced, chlorine is the way to go, or a salt cell.

Hope this helps.

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