New Pop Up Pool Setup

by Wes

I just purchased a small 10x30 pop up pool and have put together and have filled with water from garden hose. The levels that indicated from test strip before adding any chemicals are:

total hardness 100ppm,

free chlorine/bromine 0/0ppm,

pH 6.8,

total alkalinity 40ppm,

cyanuric acid 0ppm.

What type and how much of the chemicals should I add to start with? This is all very new to me.

Thanks for the question Wes

First is you need to get a good test it. The Taylor K-2006 is the best. You can start learning about it on my YouTube video here:

You're starting from zero which is good. First you need to know the amount of chemicals per 1k gallons to put in. It's 10 oz. of socium bicarb to raise the TA 10ppm. The range is 80 - 100ppm. Use socium bicarb to raise the pH as well. The range is 7.4 - 7.8.

Start by adding the 20 oz. of bicarb around the perimeter, sweep, FILTER for 10 hours, retest and make another adjustment if needed.

After about 1 hour use some dichlor chlorine. This is a stabilized form of chlorine. You need to get some chlorine and CYA (stabilizer) in the pool. It's 2 oz. to raise the CYA 10ppm per 1k gallons and the range is 30 - 50ppm. Start with 4 oz. sweep and FILTER for 10 hours, then retest the TA, pH, and CYA and make adjustments if needed.

Once you reach the 30ppm for the CYA stop and use liquid chlorine. The range for chlorine is 2 - 4ppm. For a smaller pool like yours I would recommned keeping the level no lower than 3ppm. It'll heat up very quickly and that's one thing that destroys chlorine.

If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias.

Pool Consultation

Hope this helps and have a great Summer.


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Relocating An Above Ground Pool

by Kathleen

We currently own a 18 ft above ground pool. We are trading our double wide in for a larger and new manufactured home. Which will extend eight feet longer than our current mobile, so our pool needs to be relocated.

We are hoping to just move the pool another ten feet from its current location. The filter system will actually be fine where it is so we don't have to move it.

Is taking down the pool and then resetting it a major thing? The current liner is worn out, so we plan on leaving the pool empty without the liner in it. Then come spring have a new liner installed.

Thanks for the question Kathleen

It shouldn't be a problem in relocating your above ground pool. That's one of the benefits of having these pools.

While relocating, it would be a good time to do a quick survey of the structure. Be sure there's no rust and the integrity of the pool is solid.

Many above ground pool manufacturers recommend laser leveling the ground. This is to ensure the pool is as level as possible.

If you're unfamiliar with this process, you can contact a local company to re-install the pool, or at least level the ground.

Many people have packed up their pools and set them up in their new houses.

Hope this helps and good luck with your new house and pool.


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Base Track Not Level

by Sue Brady

I have a steel sided 15x4M above ground pool set on a paved terrace that is not quite level so as to allow rainwater to drain off.

On the highest side the three buttresses are set through a low steel reinforced wall. On the slightly lower side the buttresses are set in cement. Normal swimming causes no problem but jumping about and making waves inside the pool results in a small section of the wall (at the lower end of the terrace) rising out of the base track.

I put wooden wedges under the base track before closing the pool for the winter and there has been no movement. Before using the pool I need to know if it is safe to keep using the wedges under the base track to stop the steel wall rising.

The wall is undamaged and, with normal swimming, nothing moves.

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