This kind of algae can give you a real headache if not taken care of immediately. Unlike brown algae, yellow algae, blue-green algae, or green algae, this little guy forms layers and each layer forms a scab. Even when you have good pool water chemistry and practice excellent swimming pool care to a "T", it still might not be enough.
Beautiful Residential Pool
You need to get right on this because this bugger, if left on its own, will eat a hole right through your concrete.
Properly balancing all of your pool’s chemicals and normal swimming pool care will greatly reduce, but may not eliminate the opportunity for getting green pool water, cloudy pool water, pink algae, and yellow algae.
Having your swimming
pool chlorine,
alkalinity, and
hardness
adjusted correctly is very important. Remember to
brush and vacuum
your pool because this will reduce the dirt accumulation and algae pores from sticking to the pool’s surface.
SAFETY FIRST
Always take the proper precaution in dealing with these types of chemicals and read the manufacture’s labels.
Use heavy duty rubber gloves and goggles and keep pool chlorine out of reach of children and pets. Again, I recommend using granular chlorine.
It’s easier, a bit safer, lighter in weight, easier to store, and 1 pound of granular chlorine equals 1 gallon (8lbs.) of liquid.
Chemical Help & Pool Cleaning Tips
Bring the
pH,
alkalinity, and hardness into line. Never add chlorine without first adjusting these three. Adjust your pH to 7.0-7.2, alkalinity to 85-100, and hardness to 150-250ppm.
I suggest you use granular pool chlorine, a.k.a. Calcium Hypochlorite, to shock your pool. This kind of pool chlorine has a pH level of 12.
Swimming Pool Chlorine
Now, anything over the pH level of 8.0 and you're only using about 25% of the chlorine, which means, you've lost 75% of the active swimming pool chlorine. When you add your pool chlorine, your pH will automatically go up, so get that pH down!!
Brush very well the bottom, sides, and steps to loosen any algae that may be adhering to the surface. Purchase a high quality
leaf rake,
(not those simple blue square skimmers) and scoop out as much debris from the bottom and top of the pool as you can. If you're able, make sure the
bottom drain
is clear and free from debris.
Continuously run your filter and be sure to backwash 2 times per day until the water has cleared up so there's no cloudy pool water.
If you have a DE filter be sure to re-coat the grids with each backwash.
Also watch that the pool’s water level does not get below a minimum of 2” from the bottom of the skimmer.
You want to get rid of the dead algae.
So, What's Next?
Some may say that a pool algaecide specifically designed for black algae in swimming pools is a waste of time and money, but I've had some success with and without using a pool algaecide.
The algaecide you want to get is expensive, but I've heard it works pretty well. It's called a "poly quat". You could use this for your weekly pool maintenance.
First is to brush the spot(s) with a heavy duty wire brush. Doing this will loosen up the algae and help the chlorine penetrate the spot.
Remember, swimming pool black algae has layers so you want to get as many layers off as possible before adding the chlorine.
This is for a concrete pool (gunite swimming pool) and not vinyl swimming pools as this may tear your
vinyl liner.
Next, you'll want to apply your granular chlorine, or Calcium Hypochlorite, directly onto the black algae spot. Before you begin, make sure your pH is at minimum 7.0.
If you need to drain your pool, you can get chlorine tablets and go to work on the spot.
You have to get mean with this because it will show no mercy for you. Grind it in, so to speak. Also, take care in using direct chlorine on your vinyl liner as it may bleach or stain the vinyl liner.
Add the pool chlorine around the perimeter of the pool and allow the
filtration system
Again, allow your system to run for another 24 hours. Vigorously brush your pool as often as you can. You have to get that black algae up from the roots.
Allow your system to run until the chlorine is down to 1.0-3.0ppm, normally about 2 weeks, maybe even less if you have a stretch of hot days.
What this does is brings your chlorine level up to an insane amount, about 50ppm, but this is black algae we're talking about.
Once the chlorine is down to a safe level and your swimming pool chemistry has stabilized, you may see some etching in your plaster from the pool algae.
You may need to get a sanding block from your local pool store and sand the areas where the black algae used to be.
If you have a chemical related issue, please give the chemicals readings, type of filtration system, what you've done or are trying to do, etc..
Chlorine pH Alkalinity Hardness Cyanuric Acid Sand, Cartridge, DE Filter
Please explain your issue thoughtfully. By giving me all the details, it makes it much easier to answer your question and helps others that may have similar issues.
Thank you
What Other Visitors Have Said
Click below to see contributions from other visitors to this page...
Grey Algae On Vinyl Liner
Not rated yet
We have a french swimming pool which has a liner and we have algae growing along one wall and on the bottom round the wall. I am attaching a picture.
If ...
Is This Black Algae?
Not rated yet
We have recently encountered a problem which seems that it could a black algae. We brushed it very hard and vacuumed it but it did not work.
Moreover,...
That Damn Black Algae
Not rated yet
I have a 16 x 32 above groung doughboy pool. Until 2 weeks agon no problems....and then black spots appeared.