Chlorine Demand and swimming pool water chemistry. Good weekly pool maintenance to give you the pool perfect for you.
Your swimming pool residual chlorine might be the the single most important reading you do with your pool.
Residual chlorine is the most overlooked aspect of swimming pool care. Neglect can cause cloudy pool water.
Low or high cyanuric acid (pool stabilizer) levels could contribute to a high demand for chlorine.
Test Your Chlorine
FC - TC - CC?
Residual chlorine is when any organic matter (animals, swimmer sweat, urine, saliva, green pool algae, brown algae, grass clippings, leaves, etc...) enters the pool and your pool chlorine oxidizes this matter and kills it.
The more organic matter you have in your pool the more chlorine is needed. This is not to be confused with combined chlorine or free available chlorine.
Chlorine demand is the amount of pool chlorine (or Bromine) your swimming pool, Spa, or Hot Tub is using and knowing this will also tell you how much organic matter is in your swimming pool.
Remember that neither a pool ionizer nor your salt cells will give you a good and proper swimming pool shock.
To measure your residual chlorine (and this can be done for either your swimming pool or Hot Tub) you should:
Measure your pool chlorine level with a good pool water testing kit. I recommend the FAS-DPD K-2006 Taylor test kit.
You now have the information you need. The above will tell you how much pool chlorine (hypochlorous acid) is left in the body of water after 24 hours.
You'll want to have the highest number possible, but 100% is reaching for it. This means your swimming pool is not using any chlorine, which is highly unlikely. A 0% reading is not good either because you're using up all the chlorine very quickly.
If you have asthmatic bronchitis you'll need to keep up on the chlorine and pool shock as the rising bacteria and chloramination in the swimming pool may put you at risk. You may also experience a nasty chlorine smell.
If you have any kind of chlorine allergy, or are susceptible to chlorine rash or Hot Tub rash, you may either want to reduce the amount of swimming time or look into natural swimming pools.
To get the most accurate reading of your residual chlorine it's best to measure it after you have refilled your swimming pool or Hot Tub and before you use it.
Your goal is to get as close as possible to 25% residual chlorine, meaning you've only used up 25% of your pool chlorine which leaves the other 75% to do its job.
If you pool shock on a refill at 10-11ppm, the next day you should have 7.5ppm. That's the goal you want to hit. Obviously after you start using the swimming pool or Hot Tub the residual chlorine will rise.
If after using the swimming pool and a good pool shock and your residual chlorine is a bit higher, say 50 - 75%, it means you didn't use enough pool chlorine to decontaminate the water. Simply do another shock up to 10 - 11ppm, then re-test after 24 hours.
Continue to shock and test until you get as close to the 25% range as you can. Make sure you keep up on your filter maintenance and backwash when needed.
By using this and other swimming pool maintenance tips, you will surely have a swimming pool you can be proud and will reduce your pool maintenance cost.
Go swimming and have fun.
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I have a dark brown iron stain from a rusty bolt that the kids threw in my cement pool.
We added muriatic acid to our pool to lower the swimming pool pH level. I need to know how long after we added it to swim. Thanks for your question James
We have a 20x40 kidney shaped gunite pool. It was backed washed yesterday and some DE added. Pool water tested o.k. but towards the evening bubbly or