Pool Chlorine & Swimming Pool Care

Swimming Pool Chemistry
Swimming pool chlorine
is pretty straight forward. It’s nothing more and nothing less than a sanitizer. Many pool problems and swimming pool algae for above ground and inground pools can be traced right back to the lack of a good sanitizer.
In order for you to understand all of this you need good information and swimming pool maintenance tips. This will also take care of your green pool water, swimming pool algae, and help lower your
pool maintenance cost.
Your swimming pool chemistry level must be met for your pool chlorine to work properly. In doing this you will: - Kill off any microorganisms
- Protect your swimmers from waterborne illness and pathogens
- Protect your filter equipment and
filtration system
- Control swimming pool algae
- Keep your swimming pool water chemistry in line
- Keep the
residual chlorine demand
in check
Swimming pool chlorine is the most widely used and one of the more cost effective ways for disinfecting your pool. Using this or another kind of sanitizer, like Bromine or a
pool ionizer,
is of the utmost importance in properly balancing your pool water chemistry. You should not add this sanitizer until your pH and alkalinity is correct. When your pH is under 7.0 the chlorine becomes too active. If your pH is over 8.0, it becomes less than 25% active. A proper balance of pH and alkalinity using muriatic acid will ensure proper sanitizing.
Free Available ChlorineIn the hot summer months pool chlorine can degrade rapidly. The sun will wreak havoc on your pool and for this reason any adjustments should be done in late afternoon or early evening hours. This allows enough time for it to go work immediately and start sanitizing your pool. It should be either broadcast
(Calcium Hypochorite)
or poured
(Sodium Hypochlorite/
liquid) evenly, starting in the deep end and kept at 1.5ppm-3.5ppm. If you have an outdoor pool and you're using it up like crazy I would then encourage you to check your cyanuric acid level. This not to be confused with muriatic acid which decreases your swimming pool pH and total alkalinity. Cyanuric acid is your pool's stabilizer. Too little and your pool chlorine will hit bottom, too much cyanuric acid and it can't do the job. One of the best ways to add cyanuric acid to you pool is with
chlorine tablets.
You'll want to keep this level between 20-40ppm, or about 7.5% of your free available chlorine. Example: Your level is 2.5ppm. Take 2.5 divided by 7.5% and you get 33. Keep your cyanuric acid level between 30-33ppm. Also, you'll want to do a
residual demand
test. If you have one of the many kinds of small swimming pools or
kiddie pools,
just a tiny bit is needed to keep them sanitized.
Cyanuric Chart | Cyanuric Acid | Minimum Chlorine ppm | Goal Chlorine ppm | | 20 | 1.5 | 2.5-3.0 | | 30 | 1.5 | 3.5-4.0 | | 40 | 2.5-3.0 | 4.5-5.0 | | 50 | 3.5-4.0 | 5.5-6.0 | | 60 | 4.5-5.0 | 6.5-7.0 | | 70 | 4.5-5.0 | 7.5-8.0 | | 80 | 5.5-6.0 | 8.5-9.0 | | 90 | 6.5-7.0 | 9.5-10 |
By keeping an eye on your cyanuric acid level, your sanitizer will do it's job properly and you may not need any extra swimming pool chemicals.
Remember when making any adjustments always have safety in mind. Always take the proper precaution with any kind of swimming pool chemical. Remember to read the manufacture’s labels. Use heavy duty rubber gloves and goggles and keep all pool chemicals out of reach of children and pets. Again, I recommend using granular Calcium Hypochlorite. It’s easier, a bit safer, lighter in weight, easier to store, and 1 pound of granular equals 1 gallon (8lbs.) of liquid.
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