Once you understand what pool shock is and the proper steps to take, the entire process will seem very easy and can be done when your pool needs it. Some really good questions to ask when shocking your pool are these:
Here are the real answers every pool owner needs to know.
Pool shock is basically adding enough chlorine to your pool to kill off any and all algae spores, bacteria, excess swimmer's waste, pollen, dirt particles, and anything else that may fall into your pool. Have you ever visited an outdoor public pool? Or maybe in indoor public pool? Ever notice that foul "chlorine smell"? If you have, what your sniffer sniffed out was dead and dying bacteria in the pool, also known as chloramines. It's these chloramines that give off the smell.
In addition to smelling funny, chloramines can also irritate your eyes, ears, skin, and respiratory system.
When dealing with chloramines, the best and most cost effective way to get rid of them is to use a good pool shock and literally “blast” them out of the pool with a high dose of pool chlorine. This is also called “super-chlorination” which kills algae. Normally, you’ll want to bring up the chlorine level 10 times per every 1ppm of pool chlorine, or a 10:1 ratio. There are also many non-chlorine shock products on the market, such as potassium monopersulfate. MPS does not shock the pool in the same way as chlorine does. It will not beak down chloramines already in the water. Regular chlorination also offers safe swimming for you and your swimmers.
It’s an “all or nothing” approach, so don’t skimp on the pool chlorine. When you super-chlorinate your pool, you must go all out and shock your pool all at once, not over a few hours days. Using less or skimping on pool chlorine will only make your swimming pool problems worse and the chloramines and bacteria will only get stronger and more resistant to future pool shocking treatments. Remember, you must use your pool chlorine and “slam it” or the chloramines, bacteria, and contaminants will return.
Glad you asked. But first, we should look at their difference and definitions, and they are:
In order to know your actual FC, TC, and CC, you will need a good test kit such as the Taylor K-2006. Regular 4 way kits, yellow OTO kits, and test strips cannot give you the numbers you need.
When you do shock your pool, you will need to hit what's know as break point chlorination. This is understood as an increase to your chlorine level up 10 - 12 times your CC reading.
While pool shock is really a process and not a product, we'll still go on the current verbiage that is known to most pool owners.
Also known as cal hypo or chlorine granules, this kind of pool chlorine has been used for decades and is one of the least expensive and convenient ways to chlorinate your pool.
Also known as bleach. A very efficient and cost effective way to chlorinate your pool. Sodium hypochlorite can contain between 8.5% and 10.5% per 1 gallon.
Granular chlorine that's fast acting and dissolves quickly, much faster that calcium hypochlorite.
The actual names of these are Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione (dichlor) which contains between 58% and 62% active chlorine. TriChloro-S-Triazinetrione (trichlor) is more common in chlorine tablets and contains upwards of 90% active chlorine.
Non-chlorine shock normally contains potassium peroxymonosulfate as the ingredient. It's a fast and inexpensive pool shock alternative for those that might be sensitive to chlorine.
This is an area of debate, but after being in the pool business since 1999 and clearing up over 700 nasty green and cloudy pools in 3 different states, I can say with much confidence that weekly "shocking" of your pool is unnecessary. Maintaining the proper pool water chemistry and a residual chlorine level of either 2 - 4 ppm or 3 - 5 ppm is normally more than enough to kill organic matter in the pool.
That being said, you may want to shock your pool under certain circumstances, such as after:
Always remember it's safety first. Before you begin: make sure your filtration system is properly working and all of the other readings are in line; the pH, total alkalinity, and hardness.
To start with, you'll need:
You'll want to shock your pool either in the late afternoon or early evening to allow the chlorine to do its job for the longest amount of time.
It must be stated here that shock is absolutely NOT a product we buy. It's a PROCESS we do. The packages of shock are nothing more than stabilized or unstabilized chlorine. In fact, the chemicals added to "stabilize" the chlorine can cause a whole host of costly problems for your pool if you use it too often.
There's really no consensus as to how long you will need to wait until you can re-enter the water. A good rule of thumb is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the back of the product. Most directions on the back of the package will offer precaution warnings and tips for storage. Your best bet is to test the chlorine level to be certain that your water is safe before returning to swim. Once your free chlorine level is in an acceptable range and you can see the bottom of your pool, you should be able to resume your normal swimming activities.
Shocking your pool is something you may need to do from time to time, but the utmost caution must be taken. We're dealing with chemicals, and to put it lightly, some chemicals don't play nicely with other chemicals. To be blunt, they're very dangerous and could cause serious harm to you and your pool plumbing if they're not properly handled and stored.
Everyone loves a crystal clear pool. And with the right information and the right tools, it's much easier to keep it that way. Defeat the algae and bacteria, and you're on your way to a great swim party this weekend, or a relaxing dip after a hard day's work.
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Green Pool With Cloudy Water
Thanks so much for your website. We are new to taking care of a 10,000 gallon in-ground pool. We live in south Texas where it is muggy and hot. Our …
High Cynaric Acid Not rated yet
My pool is a 26,000 gallon above ground vinyl liner. around 7/31/2014 the cya raised to 113 and then my water started clouding up. 8/5/2014 stopped …