Easy Pool Shock Treatment and Chlorine Safety. Best Way To Learn Pool Chlorine Shock For Swimming Pool Care and Maintenance.
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Chlorine's job is three-fold: Sanitize, oxidize, and kill organic matter in the pool. Let's just keep it simple and say it "kills stuff" namely, organic matter. This can be anything that is found in your pool such algae spores, bacteria, swimmer's waste like sweat and spit, grass clippings, leaves, bugs, etc.. The chlorine readings you have in your pool are the following:
Free Chlorine (FC) is the amount of active chlorine in your pool water. You want your water’s FC level to be between 2 - 4 parts per million (ppm) so the chemical can do its job.
Total Chlorine (TC) is the sum of FC and CC in your pool.
Combined Chlorine (CC) is the chlorine that’s been used. It’s still in the water, but it doesn't register as active chlorine.
FC - TC - CC. Wait. What?
While pool shock is really a process, not a product, we'll still go on the current verbiage that is known to most pool owners.
Also known as cal hypo or chlorine granules, this kind of pool chlorine has been used for decades and is one of the least expensive and convenient ways to chlorinate your pool.
Also known as bleach. A very efficient and cost effective to chlorinate your pool. Sodium hypo can contain between 8.5% and 10.5% per 1 gallon.
Granular chlorine that is fast acting and dissolves quickly, much faster that calcium hypochlorite.
The actual names of these are Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione (dichlor) which contains between 58% and 62% active chlorine. TriChloro-S-Triazinetrione (trichlor) is more common in chlorine tablets and contains upwards of 90% active chlorine.
I'm not a big fan of non-chlorine shock products, but it's worth a look. Non-chlorine shock normally contains potassium peroxymonosulfate as the ingredient. It's a fast, inexpensive pool shock alternative.
This is an area of debate, but after 20 years in the pool business and clearing up over 700 nasty green and cloudy pools in 3 different states, I can say with much confidence that weekly "shocking" your pool is unnecessary. Maintaining the proper water chemistry and a residual chlorine level of either 2 - 4 ppm or 3 - 5 ppm is normally more than enough to kill organic matter in the pool.
That being said, you may want to shock your pool under certain circumstances, such as after:
Always remember it's safety first.
Before you begin: make sure your filtration system is properly working and all of the other readings are in line; the pH, total alkalinity, and hardness.
To start you'll need:
You'll want to shock your pool either in the late afternoon or early evening to allow the chlorine to do its job for the longest amount of time.
It must be stated here that shock is absolutely NOT a product you buy. It's a PROCESS you do. Regardless of what anyone has told you. Regardless of any product you've seen at your pool store with the name "Shock" on it.
The packages of shock are nothing more than stabilized or unstabilized chlorine. They're not SUPER chlorine. Or MEGA chlorine. Or PLUS anything. In fact, the chemicals added to "stabilize" the chlorine can cause a whole host of costly problems for your pool!
Chloramines (combined chlorine) are when your pool chlorine (sanitizer) comes into contact with organic matter (swimmer waste, sweat, urine, etc...).
The pool chlorine kills the bacteria and organic matter and we all know what happens when an organism dies, it releases gas. This is the chlorine smell when you enter a pool area. This can also result in a high chlorine demand and high free available chlorine. Too much chlorine may cause a swimming pool rash or a chlorine rash.
How Does Your Pool Get Chloramines?
Far too often people say that too much chlorine is used when the opposite is true. There’s not enough pool chlorine to take care of the waste, bacteria, and contaminants in the pool or the effectiveness of the chlorine has been compromised.
Chloramines are the result of insufficient free available chlorine to kill organics in the pool. This usually results in that “chlorine odor” or smell and may result in a higher residual chlorine demand.
In dealing with chloramines, the best and most cost effective way to get rid of them is to use a good pool shock and literally “blast” them out of the pool with a high dose of pool chlorine.
This is also called “super chlorination”. Normally, you’ll want to bring up the chlorine level 10 times per every 1ppm of pool chlorine, or a 10:1 ratio. Get a good water testing kit for accurate pool water testing. There are also many non-chlorine shock products on the market, such as potassium monopersulfate. MPS does not shock the pool in the same way as chlorine does. It will not beak down cloramines already in the water.
It’s an “all or nothing” approach, so don’t skimp on the pool chlorine. When you super-chlorinate your pool you must go all out and pool shock it all at once, not over a few hours or days. Using less or skimping on pool chlorine will only make your swimming pool problems worse and the chloramines and bacteria will only get stronger and more resistant to future pool shocking treatments. Remember, you must use your pool chlorine and “slam it” or the chloramines, bacteria, and contaminants will return.
Chart - Superchlorinate Your Pool
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Green Pool With Cloudy Water
Thanks so much for your website. We are new to taking care of a 10,000 gallon in-ground pool. We live in south Texas where it is muggy and hot. Our …