Green PoolsGreen pools and cloudy pool water is normally a lack of pool chlorine. You can easily clear up a green swimming pool.
How To Clear Up Green Pool WaterFirst, you need to have a complete list of chemical readings: You can get this done at your local pool store or use a good pool test kit yourself. I'd encourage you to get a Taylor FAS-DPD K-2006 pool test kit. Pool Water Testing and Water Testing Kit It's also good to know the readings for your fill water as well. You want to know what's going in your pool at all times. Next is to minimize the clarifier, floccs, and/or phosphate remover use. "Why is my pool cloudy?" This might be one of the reasons. Remember when you have green pool water, shocking is a process, not an event. The chlorine level needs to stay above 12ppm for a period of time to kill the algae. Green Pool Water and Swimming Pool Algae
Get the pH down to 7.2ppm. Chlorine works better at a slightly lower pH when you have green pool water. Swimming Pool pH Levels and Pool pH Be sure the total alkalinity is between 80 - 100ppm, 120ppm being the top. Pool Alkalinity and Total Alkalinity Get a 5 gallon bucket filled with pool water and then add the pool chlorine. Stir with a PVC pipe or stick and broadcast it around the perimeter of the pool. Sweep the sides and bottom to break up any hot spots. Keep the filter running 24/7. You'll want to get the chlorine level up to 12 - 15ppm when your pool water is green. Shock in the evening, then retest the chlorine and CYA in the morning. You'll see how much chlorine has been used through the night. During this process you can use a PolyQuat 60 algaecide as an added backup against any algae blooms that might occur. The trick in clearing up a green swimming pool is to get the pH in line and keeping the chlorine level above 12ppm for a period of time. That's why you shock in the evening, retest in the morning, then shock again. Let the filter do its job. Be sure to clean the filters or back wash every day. Remember to test morning and evening and keep the chlorine level at 12ppm or above as best you can. You may need to do this for a few days. When the pool turns a white/gray color and you only lose 1 - 2ppm of chlorine through the night you'll know the algae is dead. If the chlorine loss is more you probably still have some residual algae. If you have a pool store that's close, take a sample of water to be tested after every turnover of the water. This is normally about 8 hours. Morning and night. They should do it for free. If your CYA is above 100ppm you'll need to do a partial drain and refill to reduce the stabilizer. Do this BEFORE you shock. If the CYA is low, below 20ppm, first shock with Dichlor chlorine. This is a stabilized chlorine that will put the CYA in the pool. When you reach the 30 - 50ppm mark, stop using Dichlor and switch to liquid chlorine. Be careful when using Dichlor as it can get out of hand quickly. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Dichlor, you'll raise the CYA by 9ppm. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Trichlor tabs you'll raise the CYA by 6ppm. Use liquid chlorine when shocking a pool. Chlorine granules have a pH of 12. Your pH level might go through the roof and you'll be adding more calcium to your pool. Go To: |
